Medieval herb garden blog 80: Teasel

Teasel leaves and mature stems are extremely bitter. However, the young shoots can be prepared like asparagus.

The roots have a deep, dark, earthy bitterness. It tastes similar to burdock or dandelion. These were traditionally infused into homemade herbal beers and tonics.

Teasel leaves and roots can produce a soft blue, grey or khaki green colour on natural fibres. When added to alum, it creates a rich yellow.

Teasel seed heads have been used for centuries to tease, or card, woollen fibres before spinning. They help to clean out any debris and help the fibres to 'run true'.  

In medieval times, people put dried teasel heads onto hand-held wooden frames. They brushed these across damp woven fabric. The stiff, but flexible, hooks combed out loose fibres. This created a soft, uniform finish without ripping or tearing the cloth. If a knot or 'slub' was found, the teasle itself would break rather than tear the fabric.

To increase production, the teasel gig was invented. It was used in England by the 1550s. It became more widespread across the textile industry by the 1700s. The gig was a large revolving iron cylinder that could hold up to 3,000 teasel heads. The fabric was continuously passed over the gig. This recreated the traditional hand-brushing motion at high speed.

In 'dry finishing', the teasels created a soft blanket-like finish. In 'wet finishing', they were used with damp cloth to create specialised 'dress' fabrics like moleskin.

Metal wire brushes and carding machines eventually replaced teasels to lower costs. However, man-made brushes cannot replicate the elasticity and 'gentle touch' of the teasels. So, teasels are still required for specialised textiles.

The 'exact directional nap' required for a perfect 'ball roll' on professional pool, snooker and billiard tables is often still achieved using teasels. Heavy, pristine, felt-like 'doeskin' wool fabrics used for royal guards and military dress uniforms are still occasionally finished with teasels. This helps to maintain a flawless finish.

Joshua Ellis, in Batley, West Yorkshire and Johnstons of Elgin, Scotland are famous for weaving some of the world's finest cashmere. They continue to rely on traditional teasel-raising methods for specific premium finishes.

Teasel folklore centres around its ability to collect rainwater in its cupped leaves. This water was known as 'fairy wine'. It was believed to have magical, rejuvenating properties. However, Irish folklore did not allow it to be drunk by humans.

Teasels were made into brooms, making use of their thorns. These brooms were used to sweep evil spirits from homes. The prickly heads were also hung above doorways to ward off witches.

The coat of arms of the Worshipful Company of Clothworkers contains a golden teasel head. The Company is one of the Livery Companies of the City of London, incorporated by Royal Charter in 1528.

European goldfinches (carduelis carduelis) are the main birds to eat teasel seeds. Other seed-eating birds like redpolls, siskins and finches will also sometimes eat them.

Teasels are visited by many different insects. These include bumblebees, butterflies (such as the red admiral, peacock and small tortoiseshell), hoverflies and moths (especially hawk moth species). Aphids, ladybirds and shield bugs can also be found on teasels.

Teasel was used for skin conditions such as warts, whitlows and acne. It was said that an infusion could strengthen the stomach and increase appetite, remove obstructions of the liver, and act as a remedy for jaundice.

“The water found in the hollow of the leaves is commended as a collyrium to cool inflammation of the eyes, and as a cosmetic to render the face fair.”

*As always, this isn't to be considered medical advice today. Please don't use any plants mentioned in these blogs as medicine without advice from a doctor.